Starboard Hull completed

Tarred hemp rope would be wedged between the boards while in dry dock.
Once the ship is launched it would take at least a week before she would float on her own as the planks swell keeping her somewhat water tight.

I will however use would putty prior to sanding the hull.
Starboard hull planked and ready for sanding.

Steeler planks

Two Steeler planks are added to the stern increasing plank width

Horn Timber Cheek

The "A" series hull planks join against the transom. The "B" series butt up against the keel above the stern post.
The "Horn Timber cheeks" support the hull planks in this ares

Planking the hull

The first hull plank is placed under the planksheer. Each plank is tapered at the ends to fit into the bow nose and transom. The rule is no less then 5 bulkheads per plank, 2 planks between the seams , no running seams. Run 1 ban of each series "A" "B" "C" eye ball for smooth stream line. Drill each plank 5/64" into each bulkhead using 5/64" dowels made from stock. This will insure tight fit against bulkheads and give a smooth finish, all planks are glued. Razor cut and sanded dowels once it has dried. Hull spaces will be filled with wood putty primed and painted black with a red bottom detailed with a white line running alone the planksheer.

Deck Planking

Deck planking is time consuming.
I decided to lay down the forward deck to secure the bulkheads before starting the hull planking. The smallest imperfection during the alignment of the bulkheads causes everything else to be out of alignment so it does need to be exact especially that this model is not double planked as was my first model the Virgina sloop.

Outer planksheer attached

Planksheer

Planksheer needed to be fitted into the bulkhead by sanding down the bulkhead stantions. The Transom is not yet connected, but the placement is becoming clearer as the planksheer rail joins against it.

Planksheer

Sand down the bulkhead post to fit the deck rail, cut to fit against the transom

Bulkheads in place

Bulkheads inserted into the hull board, center keel and rudder connected. The hull is shaved with a knife where it joins the keel. This allows the first hull plank to sit flush against the center keel. This is done from the stern up to the top of the bow. Without having doweled the keel before hand, it would not have been possible to glue the keel to the hull since the angle on each side of the hull is only 1/16 thick in some spots as you can see the dowel is showing through the hull.

Mast fitting

Bevel the mast post to fit into the hull form. Alignment of the rake will be controlled by the outer stantions along with the main stay and back stay.

Mast placement

Work the mast posts, supporting the hull with wooden blocks securing the mast

Transom

Transom is a bit difficult because the position it sits is not yet clear. I discovered that the planksheer butts up against it so it should start to take form.

The hull is in two pieces doubled up glued together.

Transom needs to be angled so I sat it in a glass of water over night then clamped it to a board with a pencil under it, I
glued the hull together sand down edges.

Bevel Bulkheads mark WL-6 center line

Bevel the bulkheads, mark the WL-6 line and hull center line on each bulkhead, sand according to each drawing on chart.

Center Keel

Connect keel to hull

Fishing schooner 1902 model

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